You have a long list of old transmitters there. Too many can sometimes cause Bluetooth dropouts, so Dexcom recommends clicking “Forget this device” for all but the current one. Not sure how the codes work with G7, but with G6 the last two digits or letters corresponded to the last two of the transmitter ID. Don’t worry if you mistakenly “forget” your current transmitter. You’ll just be asked to re-pair.
@ Beacher Thank you. I had noticed I need to clean that up. You obviously looked at my phone pretty closely. I want to thank you for not calling me out about the girl spelling of my name. You can only imagine when I was 8 how many playground issues I had
@Eric I’m on G6, so may be different, but my Bluetooth an iOS settings rarely shows the current G6 sensor/transmitter as “connected”. I’ve noticed this, but like you wonder how iOS knows to “activate” at the same 5 minute intervals as the transmitter. I figure it’s similar to the old passcode timing devices various orgs used in the past. On the good side, everything’s working, just as you indicate.
Thanks!! Just happened to ask Dexcom and he said to wait until starting new sensor. I just removed the whole list except for the top and bottom one. Nothing bad happened.
I was told that every 5 minutes you get a reading. I also inquired about this. So it will read “not connected” until the next reading, if you time it right, you will actually see “connected.”
As others said “connected” means there is an active connection but the G6 and G7 both drop the connection once the requested data has been sent to the connectee. It’s the same on Android as on iOS.
The list of devices is the list of paired devices; so far as I can tell once a computer is paired to a dexcom Gx transmitter a connection can be established at any time. With the G6 this was no big deal, with the G7 there is a new transmitter which must be paired anew every 10 days so it’s easy to get a massive list. I adopted a strategy with the G7 of manually unpairing (in the OS, not the app) with each new transmitter. Neither Google nor Apple have yet woken up to the fact that these devices leave spurious “pairings” on the computer that are just plain confusing/annoying.
Dexcom have also made this very tricky with the G7. The pairing code (the password) is the four digit code printed on the box that must be entered to allow the app to connect to the transmitter, however the pairing code does NOT help with working out which device is which. The transmitter “id” is, indeed, the last two characters of the device name, so:
As you can see I have “DXCMqs” and “DXCMKu” paired, but which is the new (current) one and which is the one I started using 1.9 days ago? Since I use xDrip+ and since JamOrHam has improved the G7 handling quite a lot over the last few months (and probably will improve it quite a lot more, I hope) I can find out from the xDrip+ “System Status”:
That tells me the “Transmitter ID” (the pairing code) and the MAC; the string of poo on the line after the Transmitter ID. Then I can go back to the OS Settings and find the same string of poo on the “information” for one of the devices:
This is, of course, horrendous. It’s clearly an “intelligent user” interface because a normal human being couldn’t possibly use it. Pretty much a standard user interface for modern computers but inappropriate for medical devices.
But what about the ID? It’s two ASCII latin alphanumeric characters and is case sensitive. So there are only 3844 distinct device identifiers (62x62). Now if my stats remembers me (or maybe the other way round) that means if 62 diabetics with G7 sensors are gathered together for some unknown purpose there is a good chance that two of then will have the same device identifier.
What happens then? What happens when one of the two transmitters transmits? Do both computers wake up and attempt to pair (only one will succeed)? I certainly don’t know enough about BlueTooth to comment.
Is it better with the Dexcom app? Does it display the transmitter ID (DXCM??) somewhere?
To remove old sensors from the Bluetooth connections list while you are wearing one, follow the above steps and keep these tips in mind:
All Dexcom sensors are listed as not connected, even the current one. The current sensor’s status changes to connected during the few seconds every 5 minutes when it’s sending your sensor reading to your phone. If you watch the list for up to 5 minutes, you’ll see which sensor is the current one.
Don’t worry if you remove the current sensor. Within 5 minutes, the sensor will send your next sensor reading to your phone and the sensor will reappear in the Bluetooth connections list. (If you use an iPhone, it will prompt you to re-pair the sensor — no pairing code needed. Android phones do this automatically.)
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Admittedly, following the second bullet involves a bit of “trust” of Dexcom!
(Sorry for the text font size/formatting, I couldn’t figure out how to change it after noticing I was YELLING!)
Ok, let’s see if it works; I’ve got 5 days on this sensor and I just “unpaired” it. Last reading was 4 minutes ago…
Oops:
16:13 onRecieve UPDATE Name DXCMqs Value
C5:10:B3:9E:C8:32 Bond state 10 Unpaired bs: Unpaired was Pairing
16:12 onReceive: UPDATE Name DXCMqs Value
C5:10:B3:9E:C8:32 Bond state 11 Pairing bs: Pairing was Unpaired
16:12 onReceive UPDATE Name DXCMXU Value
C9:DC:D8:6F:83:83 Bond state 10 Unpaired bs: Unpaired was found
That’s probably incomprehensible to most people but what happened was that I have three failed sensors on a wait with Dexcom customer service (“48 hours” doesn’t include certain days) and the DXCMXU is my current sensor, the DXCMqs is one of the three failed ones sitting on my desk while I wait for Dexcom to call back.
It took more than 5 minutes for xDrip+ to work out what is going on but it doesn’t seem to have dropped a reading. So on balance deleting all of them is OK. Tested by someone who knows how to break things
please keep the NPH away from the dog 
