Yesterday I kept getting signal loss alerts–even when my phone was with me–but there weren’t any actual drop-outs. After Tai Chi class (happened 3 times!), I changed out my sensor and problem solved after only 1 more false alert. Very weird! This ever happen to anyone else?
Were you able to look at your phone right as the alarm was sounding?
I am curious: after how many minutes after a signal loss do you have your phone set to alarm?
Yes, almost every time. The alarm is set for 20 minutes. When I opened the app to check, all was normal, no ??? on the display.
I’ll be darned. That is really puzzling.
My son forgets to restart his phone daily at least once a week (which, for us, causes the signal loss typically within 24 hours), so we get a lot of signal losses. But I have not seen that. I will be really interested in reading answers to this thread.
When I get signal losses, first thing I do is double check my bluetooth settings. If you have multiple Dexcom things in there, you may still have old transmitters entered, which you should manually delete. When I forget to do that when I swap transmitters, it doesn’t stop working right away but inevitably I start having more signal issues until I fix it. Otherwise I rarely have problems unless my site is being physically blocked, which can do it, or I’m out of range. Occasionally the app will just quit overnight, which annoys me, but could be super dangerous for someone relying on it for hypo alerts.
One of the reasons I like to use the Dexcom Receiver at the same time for overnight.
I got rid of the old TXs a while ago so that can’t be it. Sigh…
And it all started up again last night so I’ll be calling Dexcom when I get back home.
I’ve noticed this from time to time which is usually an indication of a bad transmitter (low battery) or a phone restart.
The transmitter has only been on about 5 weeks so I hope that’s not the problem. I will do a phone restart and see what happens.
@CatLady - Are you able to carry the Dex Receiver also?
That might help to isolate the problem to either the Transmitter or the Phone.
Ah, good idea! I brought the receiver as back-up so I can try that. So far, no false alerts since I did the phone restart. Paws crossed!
I would like to follow the recommendation for cleaning out old bluetooth connections, but when I look at the list of paired devices with Dexcom in the name, I can’t distinguish which is my current active connection and which are the old ones. Does anyone have a technique for distinguishing which one not to delete? Or will the active one automatically re-pair if I delete it too? Or do I wait until I’m ready to replace the G6 transmitter and delete all the old paired devices before I set up the new transmitter?
Not sure how the codes work with G7, but with G6, in the list of Bluetooth connected Dexcom devices, the last two digits or letters correspond to the last two of your current transmitter ID. Don’t worry if you mistakenly delete your current transmitter. You’ll just be asked to re-pair.
On my phone the most recently used Bluetooth connection is the first DX in the list.
On the G7, the Bluetooth name seems to be “DXCM” plus two characters which can be digits or uppercase or lowercase letters. This presumably corresponds directly to the 4 digit code. If someone has way too much time on their hands, they could figure out the algorithm Dexcom uses to convert the 4 digit code to the 2 character name suffix.
I got rid of the ghost Dexcoms by putting all the old ones in a Farraday bag, deleting all the DXes in the Bluetooth list, then starting a new G7. Now I take the old one off, put it in the bag and delete it from the BT list before starting the new one. I also write down the code DXCMxx for each one on the boxtops that I keep for record. Makes it simple to start xDrip+ reliably. The old G7s keep transmitting for a long time. Surprising, since the lithium coin cell inside is really small.
That’s easy, but your premise is, I believe, incorrect; there are only 3844 possible DXCM.. bluetooth identification values yet there are 10,000 pairing codes. There’s no reason for them to be related. The DXCM.. value is just a UI friendly name for your sensor designed by someone to whom UI is an incomprehensible alien science.
It cannot be used other than as a crutch for a broken and badly designed UI. The pairing code works just fine so long as you aren’t at a conference of G7 users; in that case all bets are off (for those who want to do the math it’s a variant of the birthday problem where birthdays come up every 10 days and pairing can take more than 10 minutes, potentially a lot more.) Whatever.
This is nothing to do with the signal loss, which was an issue in 2017 and maybe still is but the G7 seems to have got better.
To answer @JMe 's question (from 2025) just delete all the DXCM things but then you must sit around staring at you 'phone until the pairing request comes in. Don’t believe the stuff you read on line - you must do this. It takes 5 minutes (max).
Alternatively, to avoid the annoyance, just wait 'til you do a sensor change, can the last sensor then go through and delete every darn’ed bluetooth thingy in settings. Think of this as spring cleaning. Then connect to the new sensor. This will just work; no 5 minutes watching Dexcom adhesive dry.