Have you tried the transmitter reset apps?
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I’ve got some G5 expired 2017 transmitters that we’re given to me, still unopened in the boxes. Old transmitters like this will have a dead battery so I have no reason to keep them, plus I am running out of G5 sensors.
Anybody who wants 2 old unused G5 transmitters for trying a battery replacement, PM me and I will send them your way.
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I haven’t. Where do I find those?
This is Spike for iPhone. I’ve used it off and on instead of the Dexcom app. It allows you to keep using the G5 transmitter until the battery is fully dead, usually a few months (or more) beyond the 112 day transmitter hard shut down programmed into the Dexcom app.
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The early 80, 81 G6 transmitters could be reset using xDrip or Spike. Then dexcom started shipping 8G, 8J and later series on transmitters. So its rare that someone could benefit currently.
But if you have or get an older 80 or 81xxxx G6 transmitter, with battery replacement, then reset would work, and easy to do with xDrip on android phones.
Spike is still available for iPhone, more complicated now and last I saw required yearly fee for ios developer.
The See my cgm article has not kept current, but was accurate in 2018-19.
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I considered restarting my G5 transmitter, and am keeping it (and a few other old ones) around in case I hate the G6, but just started my first G6 today to see how it goes. Initially part of my hesitation in switching was that you can’t (easily?) clip back in and out the transmitter from a sensor in use, and I need to do that sometimes when conducting my MRI-based research, but that’s indefinitely on pause now anyway, so shrug. I can see why some folks (esp parents of young kids and people with dexterity problems) like the new inserters, but I really hate them–an unbelievable amount of plastic waste. It’s faster than the old ones, so maybe a little more comfortable, but I never really minded the old ones much anyway. It is somewhat lower/flatter profile, which is nice, and maybe be more so for people prone to knocking theirs or displacing them (rarely an issue for me). Still waiting for the warm up period to finish, so no thoughts re accuracy yet.
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Yes, you can easily remove the transmitter, which is required if you want to restart sensor for additional days. Some use test strip, guitar pick, credit card, or metal hair barrett to do the removal. There are many posts and videos on how to do this.
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Thanks, that’s good to know! Sounds like it’s a little harder than the G5, which I could do easily by hand, but doable if need be.
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just added video to previous post.
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Thanks!
Right off the bat, not great accuracy–said I was 167 at the start, but then it quickly started dropping and I next noticed because it was alarming at me that I was 79 with a straight down arrow and would be in urgent low territory in 20 min. I have very good hypo awareness, so I knew that was wrong, and sure enough, tested at 140 (much more plausible also given I recently ate a bunch of delicious gluten-free pizza and gluten-free brownie sundae for dinner as part of a fundraiser, so good). I hate calibrating with a down arrow, but did it since I also didn’t want my alarms going off all evening (about to go back to working on a manuscript), but not impressed with the whole “no calibration needed” thing so far.
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To us this is just a false promise. No way the G6 is just miraculously better than the G5 and calibrations aren’t just required they are necessary with the G5. Especially for Liam. Most times when he’s either reading really high, or low, he’s neither of those things. If he reads 300 he is usually only 130. If he reads low he’s usually around 100. No way we won’t be calibrating unless the G6 prices they aren’t necessary.
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Can’t speak about how it works in the younger person’s body, but we have never once calibrated the G6 and have more than acceptable performance.
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After the first 4-8 hours I never calibrate and accuracy is very good.
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Here’s hoping!
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I guess I’d rather calibrate right away and then have it accurate from then immediately onward, which is how I find the G5 typically (which as a result I rarely calibrated, usually ignoring the prompts). The G6 continued to be off for a while even with an early calibration, and I calibrated again an hour later (again it was alarming low when I was 30 higher than that). Now it’s running the opposite (says I’m 141 when I’m 112), so maybe I should have left it alone, but again, I’ve almost never had this level of inaccuracy with the G5.
The iPhone G6 app UI is prettier, I’ll say that much.
What I AM looking forward too is that with Loop, if you don’t calibrate, the micro-boluses stop working. What this means that if I forgot to calibrate the G5 before going to sleep, that during the night sometime it may need a calibration and micro-boluses stop. This means the BGs go higher (not drastically high, but higher than I like…instead of the 90 - 120 that they usually stay in during the night with micro-boluses, it may go up to 180 or 190). So, after switching to the G6 with no calibrations ever required, this means the necessary calibration deal to keep loop working as a well oiled machine will be eliminated and save some time and trouble.
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Oh yeah that would be super annoying @ClaudnDaye. I never take the G5 calibration requests particularly seriously, would not like a system that required them.
Seems to be on track now; dex = 143, meter = 136 (so I’m not calibrating this time). I suspect the G6 will be mostly fine, but for me may underperform within the first 24 hours relative to the G5. If you didn’t find the G5 accurate in that timeframe though, may not be any different for you.
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haha. Only very recently, we’ve started this same practice. lol. When the calibration is required, we have started just entering w/e number happens to be showing at the time (assuming it’s level)…if it’s not level, I just wait and enter w/e number ends up showing up once it levels out. Too much work, too many finger sticks.
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That’s exactly what I would do.
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